Adventures in Paradise 49

Adventures in Paradise 49

Kia Orana, everyone! Our excellent adventure continues with some thoughts comparing “Survivor” the reality TV series to being a survivor in reality. Last week, we were voted off our island. To be honest, this “voting off” came as a suggestion from our mission president that we visit Aitutaki.  We had been told that we should not leave the Cooks without experiencing the beauty of this spectacular atoll, so we jumped at the chance to see it for ourselves. I was also curious to visit after learning that “Survivor, Cook Islands” had been filmed on one of Aitutaki’s small islets or motu.

One morning in February 2010, a cyclone struck while the people of Aitutaki slept. In the dark and for the next six hours, frightened villagers prayed to survive as the winds destroyed homes and crops. Tin roofs were torn off and sent flying through the night sky. Windows were broken, sending glass shards through homes where people were seeking shelter. The sound was deafening and those six hours seemed like an eternity. In the morning, the scene was one of almost total devastation. Luckily, on an island of one thousand people, no one was killed, but one hundred and sixty four homes had been at least partially destroyed, leaving three-fourths of the islanders homeless. This was reality.

Across the lagoon a few months later, a film crew arrived to film episodes of the “Survivor” series.  Contestants arrived anxious to begin a few weeks of deprivation, challenges and games of strategy. They were hoping to form secret alliances and out maneuver the other players. Some were going to be filmed behaving badly and most would be voted off their little island before the final episode. In the end, someone was going to win an obscene amount of money and become famous for fifteen minutes. This was reality TV.

Having spent a few days with people who are trying to return to normal lives, I was struck by the juxtaposition of these two realities. The truth as I see it is that there is not much real about reality TV. That film crew would have had a much better reality show had they simply filmed the survival efforts of one thousand ordinary Aitutakians working together to regain what once was. Recovery is the reality for these people. It is not a game and there is no grand prize awaiting one lucky player.

At one o’clock in the morning in February, 2010 residents were awakened by the ominous sounds of heavy winds and crashing trees. In the dark they could hear banging, clanking and the unmistakable shatter of breaking glass. Most were unaware as they went to bed, of the approaching cyclone and now were caught unprepared. In the blackness, parents were calling for their children all the while listening to the frightening signs that indicated that their homes were being blown apart. The storm stayed centered on the island for six hours and as daylight arrived and the winds abated, the villagers were stunned by the sight that greeted them. The world as they knew it had been destroyed. The business of surviving and accessing damage had begun. Their survivor challenge was to simply make it through that first day, then on to the next. No immunity was awarded.

These people who had little to begin with had lost everything. There was going to be an ongoing concern about finding enough food for everyone and water. There would be no bathing and clean clothes were out of the question. No one gave a thought to what they were wearing and the idea of fashioning chic “island tatters” for the benefit of cameras would have been laughable to them. It is no game when you have no home and you are cut off from the outside world. There is no director yelling “Cut”, because your suffering did not seem real enough for the audience. You are not going to get off the island and rescue is going to take some time.

Eventually, the Red Cross arrived. The LDS church came to the rescue as well. Many other organizations  and churches helped and are still helping with the recovery. Tents were allotted to each family and water tanks donated. Residents were taught as part of a permanent recovery ,to build stronger homes out of cinder block. They learned to reinforce the corners of each home for protection against future storms. For the most part, these block homes are very modest in size, being not much larger that an average living room in America. There was help in clearing fields for replanting and food supplies were flown in. Children were immunized in an effort to stave off disease. There were no alliances formed to outwit someone else, everyone worked together for their common interest. People were grateful to be alive and offered prayers of thanksgiving.

It has been almost two years since that day in February. In reality TV, the series finally ends and the contestants return home to boast of their exploits. On Aitutaki, they are still facing challenges. Although much has been accomplished, there is so much left to do. The cleanup continues and now the new reality is that cyclone season 2012 begins next month. The abandoned tin from many roofs is still lying on the ground. If caught in the wind, that sharp tin could be a deadly missive as it flies through the air. Some families are still living in tents, which will afford them no protection and some of the water tanks have yet to be installed. Many of the new homes do not have windows or doors. It is a daunting task for our new friends to recover completely.

One would think that behaving badly would be acceptable given the circumstances. But most villagers are taking this in stride like they have other challenges. They are laughing and making jokes and enjoying each other’s company. They are helping each other and sharing. We had the opportunity of eating Sunday dinner with these loving people who all brought what they had for others to enjoy. As we were being introduced to each person, and each family, we met a older gentleman who had been put out of his home. Our hostess thought nothing of having him move in with her family, no questions asked and no thought of payback. It is the island way after all.

So, if you would really like to see what kind of a survivor you are, might I suggest spending a few weeks, walking in the sandals of the people of Aitutaki. Come to the island and learn real life survivor skills. Bring your own camera so that you can document your experience. You won’t have to worry about auditioning for the show as all islanders are automatic participants. On TV, the sound of a conch shell calls everyone to a meeting. In reality, the conch sounds now instead of a school bell. It calls the children to begin the day and in from recess. It was lovely to hear that soothing sound during our stay.  The people here have also kept their senses of humor as evidenced by the boarding call we heard at the small airport as we were leaving.

“ Get on the plane or it will leave without you!”

So, we got on the plane and are now back home. We are still happy and trying to work hard. We appreciate the lessons we have learned about survival and the reality of going the distance. We have been taught the value of staying positive and being grateful for what we have. As a disclaimer, I would like to state that I actually have never watched “Survivor”, so I am simply speaking from what others have shared with me. So, with that admission, please don’t vote me off your e-mail list!

Love, Ward and Susan                    Elder and Sister Belliston, serving in the Cooks

Beautiful Aitutaki. The lighter blue water is the lagoon.

The main road passes right through a huge banyon tree.

This is a ferry to transport visitors from one side of an inlet  to the other.

One of the locals.

The young people are taking sailing lessons in their individual little boats.

This is "Survivor Island". In the foreground is our large canoe.

Ward exploring the island

My resident suvivor. Go Utes!

One of many destroyed homes.

It is truly amazing what wind can do. The family's possessions are still visible inside.

This is what remains of one of the schools . It sits on the highest point of the island where there was

 little protection from the winds. 

This is one of the many open-air churches now holding services. If you look carefully, you may be able to see the pulpit just left of the middle post.

This shows one of the new cinderblock homes. Notice the reinforced corners of the house with the white tent partially visible behind it. 

We found the islanders to be very creative with color.

One happy survivor